This Stainless-Steel Air Fryer Is the Best Looking Model We've Tested

Pros

• Stainless-steel shell gives it a refined look
• Plenty of power to make all your air fryer classics
• Sleek digital interface is easy to use

Cons

• More expensive than the average air fryer
• Stainless steel shows smudges so you'll need to wipe it doen regularly

• This Stainless-Steel Air Fryer Is the Best-Looking Model We've Tested
• Design is exceptional
• Easy controls and a handy mobile app
• Solid cooking performance
• Is the Cosori Iconic worth it?

Air fryers have never been much to look at. Most models are bulky hunks of plastic and metal that hog counter space and clash with any kitchen aesthetic worth caring about.

The glass-bowl Ninja Crispi -- our top-rated air fryer for several reasons -- doesn't win any beauty contests either, but it earns its place thanks to its nontoxic, dishwasher-safe cooking vessels, which disassemble neatly for storage.

Cosori's Iconicair fryer offers an elegeant spin on the popular kitchen appliance.

Cosori

Still, practicality and good looks don't have to be mutually exclusive. Cosori, one of the top names in premium air fryers, seems to have figured that out with its latest release — a machine that might actually deserve a permanent spot on your counter.

Cosori's latest, the 6.5-quart Cosori Iconic is made with a shiny stainless-steel shell. It was originally showcased in January, and I've been testing the Iconic at home ever since. It's not cheap at $249, but it impressed with its performance and has a refined look that you'll want to show off on your kitchen counter, not hide in a closet. 

If you've been seeking a powerful air fryer with a more upscale look, this new addition to the category could be your ticket to a more cohesive kitchen vibe. Here's what I like (and dislike) about the Cosori Iconic air fryer.

Design is exceptional

Other than the touch controls, the Cosori Iconic almost feels like a deliberate throwback to vintage toaster designs from the 1940s.

John Carlsen/CNET

I don't normally think about aesthetics when it comes to small kitchen appliances because functionality takes priority. But even I have to admit that the polished stainless steel curves of the Cosori Iconic are key to its appeal. The vertical exterior surfaces feature a brushed stainless steel that isn't as reflective. The flat, black glass control panel at the top of the unit is equally eye-catching, though I had to stop myself from storing things on it more than once.

The exterior is fairly easy to clean with a damp rag, though you might need a stainless-steel cleaner to remove stubborn fingerprints and grime from the brushed steel. In most cases, I found a dry, soft cloth to be more than enough to polish the glass and the rounded section just above the basket compartment.

Every surface inside the Iconic air fryer is polished steel, except for the heating element, which has the same nonstick coating as the basket interior.

John Carlsen/CNET

Unlike the nonstick coating on my existing air fryer, I'm happy to report that you can wipe most oil and residue off with a rag or paper towel. For everything else, you can place the entire basket and crisper plate in the dishwasher. I typically wash it by hand to leave space for other dirty dishes.

I cooked several things in a row without cleaning the basket, and grease built up on its sides. These stubborn patches of grime required a couple of minutes with a nonstick safe scrubbing pad to remove. I highly recommend washing the basket after the final batch of each air fryer meal to prevent sticky buildup.

In terms of features, the Cosori Iconic isn't far removed from the brand's other air fryer models.

John Carlsen/CNET

Unlike CNET's current top air fryer pick, the Ninja Crispi, Iconic's 6.5-quart basket isn't something you can toss in the fridge. 

The Cosori Iconic's footprint is roughly 15 by 12 inches, so you'll need a spacious countertop or cabinet for storage when not in use.

The basket gets very hot during cooking, so place it on a hot pad or heat-safe surface when you remove it. Though the manual says not to touch the sides of the air fryer while it's running, I didn't notice excessive heating in the case during my time with the unit. Still, it's always wise to play it safe and avoid the sides of the machine while it's in use.

Easy controls and a handy mobile app

As long as you have space on the counter, it won't hurt to show off this gorgeous machine.

John Carlsen/CNET

The 90-degree to 450-degree Fahrenheit temperature range covers the expected air fryer modes: air fry, roast, bake, dehydrate, proof and reheat. You can also connect the smart air fryer to your Wi-Fi network to unlock smart home controls and recipes in the VeSync app. It's possible to scan the barcode on items with the app to look up cooking instructions, but this didn't work for a package of chocolate chip cookies.

Using the VeSync app, I made chicken drumsticks without a recipe -- the only things I needed were some seasoning salt and the food's weight. Then the Iconic chose the best setting and temperature. In air fry mode at 395°F for 19 minutes, the drumsticks turned out crisp and juicy.

While the included user manual and recipe book cover the basics of using the Cosori Iconic, the mobile app is the best way to look up specific cooking instructions.

Screenshots by John Carlsen/CNET

One thing to note about the app controls (and Google Home integration) is that you can't start the cooking cycle using your phone. You can send preset cooking settings to the machine with the VeSync app, but only the control panel can start the cooking process. This vital safety feature prevents the unit from automatically switching to baking mode after 2 hours of proofing.

Solid cooking performance

It worked well for frozen French fries, tater tots and taquitos, though I usually had to add a few minutes to the app's suggested cook time for more crispiness.

John Carlsen/CNET

In addition to cookies and drumsticks, I tried every setting on the Cosori Iconic except the dehydrating mode, though I plan to dry some fresh herbs when I have more time. Fresh roasted potatoes and pork chops turned out great, with no additional settings tweaks.

Proofing frozen cinnamon rolls was a little tedious, as I think the max temperature of 110 degrees F is better for fresh dough than for frozen. I expected it to take about 90 minutes, but it ended up lasting two and a half hours before I was happy with the result. Aside from the added proofing time, the finished cinnamon rolls had a nice, pillowy texture that wasn't too dry.

While Totino's frozen pizza is hardly a gourmet experience, there was plenty of room in the large fryer basket.

John Carlsen/CNET

Seeing as my current air fryer—a specialized air fryer lid for my Instant Pot—is rather small, I wanted to try cooking something that wouldn't fit in it: frozen pizza. My pizza attempt was a little overdone due to my lack of experience, but it was still edible and evenly cooked.

Is the Cosori Iconic worth it?

The aptly named Cosori Iconic will certainly make you consider splurging on your next air fryer.

John Carlsen/CNET

At $249, the Iconic easily fits into the premium air fryer category and is Cosori's most expensive model. Even among the competition, many of the pricier units are multicookers or air fryer ovens. That said, the Cosori Iconic's five-year warranty is a major highlight compared to the relatively weak one- and two-year coverage that's common among small kitchen appliances.

Despite being a perfectly capable machine, I think many people will be just as happy with a typical air fryer in the $100 to $200 range. 

The Cosori Iconic's aesthetics are unquestionably its best feature, and I hope more brands will produce air fryers that look nicer. Additionally, the easy cleaning and long warranty help soften the higher purchase price.