Why We Still Need Professional Models

In the age of being able to take care of a lot of production needs with AI, are professional models becoming irrelevant? And even beyond AI, why is using a professional model such a necessity for professional photo shoots, especially in the fashion space?

At first, you might think that as long as somebody is photogenic, they don't have to be a model per se for a photo shoot. And to some degree, you would be correct. When there are huge ad budgets and a whole team behind the shoot, a professional model becomes a must. It's not always about just the look, because professional models have many different looks for different reasons and different clients. That is part of the conversation. But another part of it is what you get from using a professional model.

As a photographer, throughout the years, I have worked with a variety of people, including professional models, including professional supermodels, all the way to people who have hardly ever stepped in front of a camera before or had a proper photo shoot done — and just about everything in between. That also includes a lot of beginner models who require more coaching. And what this ends up teaching you is the importance of a professional model. I've seen brands try to cut costs by hiring people who are either friends or newer models to do a shoot based on the price factor. Sometimes you can get lucky and find a friend who is photogenic and natural in front of a camera and knows how to pose. And sometimes you find a newer model who is simply a natural.

Those, I would say, by far, are the outliers in this situation. What I've more often encountered are people who are less confident on camera, less sure of themselves and exactly what they're doing, perhaps unable to take direction clearly, and are unable to deliver the feeling that the shoot is going for. This ultimately costs the client or the production time and, therefore, money — which is the biggest thing that I've learned.

An inexperienced model will slow your shoot down because you will have to coach them more. You will have to do more to bring certain expressions or poses out of them, and it will take longer for them to warm up, which ultimately eats into the time you could otherwise be shooting.

That, alongside many other things — such as models arguing with makeup artists about the makeup if it's not how they would do it, or simply not being punctual or showing up at all. Typically, professional models have a certain level of professionalism that allows them to be on time and prepared, with the necessary supplies as needed. This could be heels, basic clothing, a hairbrush, etc. Although each job would have its own requirements, they would usually have a basic kit of everything they bring to the shoot. Newer models, on the other hand, may not know what to bring or where to start, and can begin the shoot on a sour note by not being prepared. Then there is simply knowing your angles, knowing where the camera is, and knowing how to find your light — meaning, being able to identify where the light is hitting you and where it isn't, and when you're in your light versus when you're out of it. And if a model is very timid in front of the camera, that will translate into your photos.

Now, yes, as a photographer, I always try to make my subjects as comfortable as possible, establish a rapport, and have fun shooting. I don't like my shoots to feel like work, even when they are. That said, an inexperienced model who isn't able to deliver on what we're looking for will end up draining the energy of the team because we're not getting what we want. We're going to have to try longer to get it, and the model will feel that. She'll get discouraged, and it creates a snowball effect that leaves everybody feeling drained.

That is not to discourage newer models from doing shoots. The only way to learn is by doing, but you start off with test shoots and portfolio building to get more comfortable on camera, get more comfortable with posing, work with different photographers to learn how they pose you, and slowly build up a repertoire of poses and build your kit. In no time, you will be an experienced model who can absolutely rock a shoot — which the client will love. And I will love it as the photographer, because I don't like shooting long days. If we can get everything we need in a shorter time frame without being rushed, then everybody goes home happy. And it's on the whole team to be able to deliver in order to achieve that.

So, ultimately, is a professional model worth it? Given the amount that both models and agencies can charge, it may seem exorbitant at times. But when you see the true value of a pro, it is undeniable, especially when compared to the alternative. I'm not trying to throw shade at newer models in the industry, or anyone who isn't comfortable in front of the camera. Rather, I want to shine a light on why models are paid what they are paid and do the jobs they do. It's not just enough to be pretty, tall, and thin. There's a lot more to it than that. Let's say there are two models with a very similar look, and let's say I've worked with both of them before. If one of them is a fantastic, warm, lovely person to be around and the other is difficult, has an attitude, or an ego, I'm going to go with the one who is pleasant, every time, because I would rather have a great experience on set than one with a dark cloud hanging above it. That's just my two cents on the matter. What's yours?