Twinkly Esme and dashing Patrick are now one of TV's best double acts: CHRISTOPHER STEVENS reviews The Great British Sewing Bee

The Great British Sewing Bee (BBC1)

Rating: Four stars out of five 

The marvellous Esme Young's eyes lit with a distinct twinkle to discover that one of her contestants is a rugger chap, as The Great British Sewing Bee returned.

'She likes a rugby man,' teased fellow judge Patrick Grant, coaxing the truth from her: Esme's father, Air Vice-Marshal Brian Young, was captain of the Wasps rugby club in the 1950s.

Esme, who is 77, guards her privacy and rarely reveals anything of her personal life. She has every reason to be proud of her dad, though.

At 21, he flew Hurricanes over France, before being shot down and badly wounded in the frantic days prior to Dunkirk.

In the Imperial War Museum archives, there's a fascinating interview with the Air Vice-Marshall, who recalls how he 'caught the flying bug' as a boy in South Africa.

His sister's boyfriend had a plane and they used to fly between farms in Zululand, delivering newspapers by zooming low and dropping them onto tennis courts, 'which was rather fun'.

He went on to become a senior NATO intelligence officer. Little wonder Esme is such a character herself. And perhaps we know now why she's so fond of Patrick, with his dashing military bearing and airman's moustache.

This is the 12th series of the Sewing Bee, now on to its fifth presenter. Comedian and writer Sophie Willan, the star of Alma's Not Normal, slipped easily into the role, avoiding the mistake of trying to consume too much of the oxygen.

Her job is simply to announce each round and make the contestants feel comfortable.

For everything else, all the explanations and criticisms, the banter and the interviews, we have Esme and Patrick, who have quietly developed one of the most assured double acts on TV.

Among the early frontrunners is a vicar's daughter from York called Anna, who lives on a narrow boat and dresses in an eclectic mishmash of vintage styles that she calls 'folk grunge' - ribbons, lace, hats and pantaloons.

Professional soprano Emma is another one to watch. Challenged to design an outfit for the perfect summer's day, she chose a swimsuit, even though (for the first time ever on the show) the dressmakers were being asked to model their creations on the catwalk.

'How are your legs?' wondered Esme in a whisper.

'My legs are great,' Emma shot back.

Sewing Bee's perennial problem, despite the best efforts of the producers, is that the women are so much better at it.

Rugby-playing school teacher Lewis acquitted himself well, but both the other blokes - fruit farmer Tim and heating engineer Sam - were teetering on the brink of elimination from the start.

Still, anyone can unravel under the pressure of competition. 'That's going to be a right mess,' gasped chief finance officer Dawn, surveying a botched pair of shorts.

'My main techniques,' wailed chartered actuary Rebecca, 'are panic and winging it.'

Don't look down, that's the trick.