I've never been partial to cold coffee, despite its growing popularity, because iced beverages often taste like something you want to slurp quickly, preferably with plenty of sweeteners and a straw. Cold brew is an exception due to its concentrated flavor, and decadent nitro cold brew is in a galaxy far, far away. Until recently, I've left the complex brewing process to the professionals, but the Cumulus Machine changed my mind about delicious and efficient cold brew coffee at home.
Cumulus entered the market earlier this year with a coffee maker designed exclusively for almost instant cold brew coffee. At $695, the Cumulus Machine is priced in the same category as an entry-level espresso machine, but differentiates itself with some decidedly impressive features.
Founded by two former Starbucks execs (the same company where I previously spent around $5.50 per cold brew), the single-serve coffee maker delivers three beverages: still cold brew, nitro cold brew and chilled espresso. Each drink takes about a minute to blend coffee concentrate with either pre-chilled still or nitrogen-infused water. The Cumulus Machine is the only single-serve coffee machine I've encountered that doesn't use grounds. It's also easily the best cold coffee I've tasted from a capsule machine.
The nitro cold brew is the hero of this system. Cumulus pulls nitrogen from the air around it, meaning no replacement canisters. As a SodaStream household, I appreciate not having to lug around gas tanks to keep beverages flowing. The ease and richness of Cumulus coffee are likely to win over many devoted cold coffee drinkers and even create some converts.
Cumulus makes nitro coffee you could (previously) only get from a barista
I tested the Cumulus Machine against other single-serve iced coffee makers, but there is no real comparison. The Cumulus makes coffee drinks that are cold straight from the machine. While a cold drink might seem like an obvious starting point, it's rare for an "iced" setting on a brewer to result in anything other than a lukewarm concentrate order to extract. Even better, the Cumulus holds 80 ounces of chilled water, so you won't have to wait for the cooling tank to refill after each pour.
Turn the dial to select one of three styles, and one button puts the process in motion. Each pre-chilled cold brew coffee is efficient, flavorful and user-friendly. The aluminum concentrate capsules are shaped like Polly Pocket-sized keg cans and contain 20 milliliters of concentrate, enough for one drink. The machine even rinses the capsule so it's ready to toss straight into the recycle bin — no digging out grounds or peeling lids.
The ergonomics of the Cumulus surprised me as a renter with minimal kitchen real estate. It's a much more substantial machine than the typical Keurig since it weighs 35 pounds without the water. Instead of spreading out like most coffee makers, however, the profile is a slim 6 inches wide. At 19 inches deep and 16 inches tall, the Cumulus will fit even shallow countertops (I'm looking at you, New York) and under standard hanging cabinets without wasting precious surface space.
The nitro and still cold brews are each 10-ounce servings designed without the need for ice, although you can add it. Nitro coffee amplifies the already smooth flavor of cold brew by infusing nitrogen microbubbles for a creamy texture and cold foam-like crema. (Nitro coffee is reminiscent of the kind of pressurized draft beer that is pumped out of the tap in a British pub.) Both options rival what a barista will serve or what I've found in a can, all without the queue at the store.
The chilled espresso is also infused with nitrogen, giving the effect of an Italian shakerato or espresso tonic. The still cold brew is also topped with a thin crema akin to a traditional espresso. But it's the creamy consistency that keeps this lactose-intolerant drinker reaching for more.
Is it cheaper to make nitro coffee at home?
The Cumulus Machine requires an up-front investment, and the coffee concentrates are available through the company's website starting at $2.50 per drink. Cumulus also features limited-edition blends and accessories like double-walled glasses to keep a drink chilled.
The machine will save you money over time if you're one of the cold brew devotees paying more than $5 per drink. At the initial cost of $695 for the Cumulus machine and the first set of capsules, you make up that daily cost in eight months or so, faster if you drink more than one cold brew a day. The kit arrives with a thoughtful variety pack of coffee capsules to try, a water filter and cleaning solution. Oh, and the machine has a legitimate water filter to maintain the integrity of one of the most important elements of your drink.
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