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The images of Japan that spring to mind are of the bustling, neon-splashed streets of Tokyo—towering walls of steel and glass, teeming pedestrians dodging traffic. But the Land of the Rising Sun also harbors visions of natural beauty that stretch the eye to the horizon and tug at the soul.
Landscapes by turns majestic and intimate can be found in the countryside, encompassing rugged mountains, lush forest, wild rivers, rocky coastline, and manicured cropland; and in the heart of metropolises such as Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, tucked into parks, temple gardens, and other green spaces.
Photos of these captivating places are there for the taking; but visitors to Japan will boost their chances of bringing home compelling images by being aware of the challenges of traveling and photographing in Japan, including coping with omnipresent crowds, toting gear on public transit, and avoiding giving offense in a decorous and tightly regulated society.
Many visitors make the day trip from Tokyo to photograph Mt. Fuji, Japan’s highest peak. The view of the sacred volcano’s frosted, symmetrical cone reflected in the placid waters of Lake Kawaguchiko is breathtaking—when the mountain isn’t obscured by clouds, which it often is. But the scenery stuns in many other parts of an island nation shaped by violent geologic forces, a wide climatic range, and centuries of human occupation.
In Nikko, a small city in the mountains north of Tokyo, a wooden footbridge spans a river gorge to a temple complex—anchored by the magnificent Toshogu Shrine—surrounded by old-growth cedar forest. In nearby Nikko National Park, a trail leads to an observation platform with a fetching view of 290-foot Kegon Falls, the outlet for a large natural lake encircled by mountains.
Villages in the mountainous Gifu region northeast of Kyoto offer scenes straight out of Shogun, the epic novel and TV series set in 1600: cobblestone streets and timber farmhouses against the backdrop of the snow-capped Japanese Alps.
Other prime locations in Japan’s hinterland include:
- Northern Honshu’s Oirase Gorge, whose lush woods, waterfalls, and whimsical rock outcrops have inspired woodblock engravers and painters for centuries.
- Biei on the northernmost island of Hokkaido, made famous by landscape photographer Shinzo Maeda’s images of vast, patchwork fields of lavender, poppies, cosmos and other flowers.
- The Senmaida rice fields, a verdant hillside of terraced rice paddies descending to the sea on the Noto Peninsula north of Toyama.
- Takachiho Gorge in the highlands of Kyushu, where you can float down a deep river canyon punctuated by a waterfall arcing into the water from above.
If rural excursions don’t fit your itinerary, big cities offer plenty of opportunity for capturing magical vistas—landscapes writ small in public parks, gardens, and temple precincts artfully designed to evoke feelings of serenity and wa (harmony). Near Tokyo’s busy Harajuku train station, an imposing torii gate marks the entrance to an urban oasis—a 170-acre forest surrounding Meiji Shrine, an important Shinto religious site. In the shrine’s Inner Garden, Japanese maples that blaze crimson in autumn frame a teahouse and rustic gazebo overlooking a tranquil pond.
Other prime urban locations: the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo, where castle ruins overlook a sweep of greensward and stately trees reaching to the distant city skyline; Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, with its thousands of vermilion torii gates straddling forest trails winding up to the summit of sacred Mount Inari; and Hiroshima’s Shukkei-en Garden, a miniature landscape of mountains, valleys, islands and bridges that was lovingly restored after its near destruction by the atomic blast that devastated the city in 1945.
Japan’s well-developed, efficient transit system provides ready access to scenic spots, whether in the city or the countryside. “Shinkansen” bullet trains operate swiftly (up to 200 mph) between metro areas, and regular trains serve smaller cities, connecting to local buses that stop at locations such as Oirase Gorge and Shirakawa-go, a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Takayama renowned for its traditional thatched-roof farmhouses. To reach some sites (such as the rice fields at Senmeida, irregularly served by bus) it’s best to drive, renting wheels from online reservation sites such as TooCoo, JR Rent-A-Car and Rentalcars.com. Just be aware that Japan drives on the left and scrupulously obeys traffic regulations; penalties are severe for speeding and other highway violations. You’ll also need an international driving permit to rent a vehicle.
In major cities, subway trains (buy a Welcome Suica Card for metro rail travel by overseas visitors at the airport) will get you just about anywhere, and bicycles—ubiquitous in Japan—are ideal for traveling light on city streets or paved trails. Bike rental is available in most cities.
The Wisdom of (Avoiding) Crowds
Japan is a nation of 125 million people—not counting tens of millions of foreign tourists who visit annually—crammed into an area the size of Montana. So hordes of people photobombing the frame and shattering one’s wa can pose an obstacle to landscape photography. To avoid the worst crowds, stay at home during peak tourism periods in Japan, roughly mid-March to mid-May (cherry blossom season) and September to mid-November. Winter, when snow shrouds Hokkaido and the mountains of Honshu, is relatively quiet, and can be a photographic delight. A side benefit is that accommodation is generally less expensive, especially in provincial cities.
Late autumn is my favorite time to take photos in Japan; summer’s heat and humidity have passed and the red maples and golden gingkoes are in their full glory (Last year Tokyo and Kyoto saw peak color toward the end of November.).
Also, consider seeking out lesser-known locations to give yourself some elbow room and peace. For example, an alternative to Shirakawa-go is close-by Gokayama, another World Heritage Site with typically fewer tourists milling around the old farmhouses. Kyoto’s Shoren-in Temple (see the first photo in this article) isn’t as large and impressive as other spiritual sites in the city, but the modest entrance fee provides access to a serene moss garden and pond overhung by mature camphor and maple trees.
Shosei-en Garden, sequestered behind high stone walls near the Kamo River, is another less visited gem in Kyoto; cherry, maple, and wax trees—bright red in the fall—surround a large pond spanned by a graceful footbridge. One sunny afternoon I happened upon a woman and a young girl wearing kimonos posing for photos on the shore (below).
When crowds are inescapable, tight composition can help to eliminate the distractions of passersby, cars, and other extraneous elements, In the photo below, taken at Shirakawa-go, I zoomed in on the farmhouse and rice paddy in the foreground to exclude a tour group just to the left. Then again, in broad landscapes including people in the frame can enhance the scene by providing a sense of scale.
A Word on Gear, and Minding Your Manners
Try to pack only the essentials for your flight to Japan. It’s a hassle schlepping a suitcase and heavy camera bag through multilevel transit stations and on trains and buses bursting with commuters. Leaving at home that full-size tripod (I carry a light travel model) and 500 mm telephoto lens will pay dividends in conserving time and energy, and preserving cordial relations with fellow travelers. But do bring rain gear, both for yourself and for your camera equipment. Maritime influences make Japan’s weather fickle; be prepared for showers anytime (June and early July are particularly soggy), and sleet or snow at higher elevations during autumn and winter.
On my first day in Japan, I realized that I wasn’t in Kansas anymore; Japan is a far country, with an ancient culture and customs different from those at home. Wherever you go in Japan, observe the behavior of people around you, and act in good faith by following the rules, both written and unwritten. Honor no-go signs and roped-off areas in parks and other public areas; don’t walk and snack at the same time—it’s offensive; and refrain from shooting in areas of temples and shrines reserved for worshipers.
A final thought: offer a small donation when you visit a religious or cultural site—good karma for your quest to discover beauty and meaning in the Japanese landscape.
About the author: Phil Davies is a writer and landscape photographer based in St. Paul, Minnesota. Visit his website to see more of his work. His travel book Scenic Driving Minnesota was published by Globe Pequot Press in 2024.
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