Welcome to Show the Receipts, a new series where we ask interesting people to share exactly how much it costs to get shit done. No matter the task, we're tracking every last dollar from start to finish.
A few years ago, I checked my phone to find a message from my aunt: "I'm trekking to Everest Base Camp. Are you in or out?" She had recently trekked to the Base Camp of K2, the second highest mountain in the world, and had her sights set on her next destination.
Although this invitation was out of the blue, it wasn't necessarily surprising. My aunt and I had spent many summers hiking in western Washington; she had a tendency to pick 10+ mile hikes and not tell me until we were at the trailhead, something I learned to embrace. We had also trekked across the Scottish Highlands together right before I started my full-time job, so this felt like a way to continue that spirit of the adventure. To add.
That first message was back in early 2020, so you can imagine where this story is going. The trek was delayed until September 2022, one of the months experts say is a good time to climb Everest (if you're interested, plan on going between March to May or September to November, FYI). The pandemic delays gave me more time to physically, mentally, and financially prepare. I focused on cross-training and going on long-distance hikes to build my endurance — and to visit REI and Ascent Outdoors to purchase gear. The hike would certainly be more taxing than our day hikes given the 17,598 feet elevation gain — and more expensive than a $30 annual hiking pass and the gas to get there. But we were ready.
Here's the cost breakdown.
Task: Trekking to Everest Base Camp
Occupation: Freelance writer and product marketing manager
Location: Nepal
Timeline: Five months of planning, 10 days of actual trekking
The Receipts
Roundtrip flights from Seattle, WA to Kathmandu, Nepal:$1,370
Everest Base Camp trek package with Himalayan Wonders. Includes guide and porter fees, meals and lodging in the Himalayas, trekking permits and fees, and hotel stay in Kathmandu before and after: $1,399
Visa for traveling to Nepal (paid upon arrival): $50
Cash for guide and porter tip and everyday expenses like bottled water, charging, laundry, etc. while in the Himalayas: $1300
Clothing gear (jackets, rain pants, leggings, socks, and base layers): $1,337
Hiking boots and spikes: $215
Hiking passes (Annual Discover Pass and Northwest Forest Pass): $60
Gym and Peloton memberships: $190 (total for the duration of my training)
Traveler's insurance through World Nomads: $84
Two helicopter rides, to and from the Himalayas due to low visibility: $125 (it would have been $1,000, but one $500 ride was covered by insurance and the second was split four ways)
Total: $6130
How I Did It
Trekking to Everest Base Camp is hard to do on a whim. Here's how the trip and the finances came together so I could feel prepared for the longest trek I had ever done.
My Biggest Expense
We booked our trek through Himalayan Wonders, which is one of the top companies that offers treks. Their fee was the biggest single expense of the trip (by a narrow margin), but it was relatively all-inclusive, covering our stay in Kathmandu before and after, the tea houses we stayed in along the trek, three meals a day, airport transfers, Everest trekking permits, farewell dinner, and fees for our guide and porter, who carried our bags between tea houses. We were lucky to get a much lower rate for this trek because we booked pre-pandemic, though our trip was delayed for two years, and the trek and flight costs would be several hundred dollars higher now. Plus, we didn't have to worry about getting our own permits or arranging lodging, which meant we could focus on the trek itself.
Prep Costs
Getting myself ready for the trek to Everest Base Camp was a combination of physical and mental preparation. My brother and aunt had trekked to K2 in the years prior, and they recommended that I spend at least an hour on the treadmill with a focus on walking with a very high incline. I was able to get a pretty great discount for a monthly membership at a local gym, and I also purchased a Northwest Forest Pass and Discover Pass so I could hike in western Washington every weekend. These costs were negligible compared to the amount I spent on gear, though. Which brings us to …
Where I Splurged
The biggest splurge was all of the gear that I had to buy, though I knew that I'd use everything for future hikes and treks. Since I had never done a trek with such a high elevation, I needed to purchase wool base layers, sock liners, rain pants, jackets, and more. I even bought my first "real" pair of hiking boots, which I broke in during the months before the trek. My now wife drove me to multiple REI locations and helped me pack — and repack — everything that would have to fit in the 22-pound duffle bag I'd bring to the Himalayas.
I was also lucky that the timing of my trek enabled me to purchase gear at REI and Ascent Outdoors during their annual sales, which helped me save 10 to 15 percent on the purchase price of some items. Many of the items I bought as base layers were made with merino wool, which is more expensive but tends to last longer and is great for long hikes since it's breathable, odor-resistant, and quick-drying fabric. My hiking boots were also one of the most expensive items I purchased for my trip, but I found them to be a great investment since I wore them before and after during my summer hikes.
Where I Saved
Because my brother and aunt had recently gone on a big trek, they had a decent amount of gear and supplies that I could borrow. My brother loaned me his hiking backpack and hiking poles, which saved me a few hundred dollars, and my aunt had a decent amount of personal cleaning supplies, granola bars, blister bandages, and filtering water bottles. I've also spent half of my life hiking in Washington State, so I had a decent amount of hiking socks and clothing that I could use as a starting point.
Where I Had to Make Sacrifices
To trek to Everest Base Camp, I had to take five days of unpaid leave from my job because it did not offer unlimited time off at the time, and I was one week short on vacation time. I'm lucky that I had the option to take leave so I could still go but as a result, I lost about $1,000 in wages, something I decided was worth it because this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I wanted to have with my aunt. I was also able to make this money back and more by writing stories about my trek to Everest Base Camp, covering everything from what to pack to which wellness products I brought with me.
My Advice to Future Everest Base Camp Trekkers
Bring cash, for one. During the trek itself, we were able to use the cash for a porter and guide tip, and we also paid for Wi-Fi, device charging, bottled water, laundry, and hot water at most of the tea houses where we stayed along the way. To reduce some of the costs, I would often pay to charge my portable battery and then use it to charge my phone and Apple Watch while hiking. Something else worth noting is that the cost of these goods typically get higher as you rise in elevation and when you get high enough, it's too cold to shower at all.
Also: opt for traveler's insurance. We bought it before arriving in Nepal, and this higher up-front cost helped cover incidentals that came up during the trek. For example, flights from Kathmandu to the Himalayas are frequently delayed due to inclement weather, which led us to book a helicopter to get to the Himalayas after a day's delay. Thankfully, this cost was covered with insurance, but we did end up needing to take another helicopter the day after reaching base camp due to inclement weather; we didn't want to risk getting stranded due to low visibility. The second ride wasn't covered, but we split the cost four ways.
Final Thoughts
Trekking to Everest Base Camp was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I'll cherish forever - after all, how many people can say that they've been 17,598 feet above sea level? But as a queer Pakistani woman, one of the best parts about doing this trek came during the aftermath. After returning home, numerous women of color messaged me that they felt inspired to book their own trek, and others talked about how they felt inspired to find a hike in their city or take a solo trip they'd been thinking about. This meant more to me than the cost of the trek itself. And when life gets challenging, I find myself thinking, "It can't be as hard as trekking to Everest Base Camp - and I already did that."
Aleenah Ansari is a queer Pakistani writer based in Seattle. She covers travel, entrepreneurship, mental health and wellness, and representation in media for PS, Insider, The Seattle Times, Byrdie, and more.