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For months I’ve been haunted by an orange soap blasted across social media that promises to fade hyperpigmentation.
The soap in question claims kojic acid is the hero ingredient responsible for evening out skin tone and fading dark spots.
But what is kojic acid and does it actually work? To find out, we spoke with Patricia Heredia, Master Aesthetician at SkinSpirit Nordstrom NYC.
What is kojic acid?
Kojic acid is “a naturally derived skin brightening ingredient that’s produced through the fermentation of certain fungi,” explains Heredia.
It’s “best known for helping reduce the appearance of discoloration by slowing down tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for producing melanin.”
While both vitamin C and kojic acid can both help to brighten the skin, they work very differently, according to Heredia.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps “protect the skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and pollution while also supporting collagen production.”
“Kojic acid, on the other hand, specifically targets pigment formation by reducing tyrosinase activity.”
Heredia suggests thinking of them as complementary ingredients that work together towards the same goal.
What are the benefits of kojic acid?
Kojic acid is most useful in evening out skin tone. Heredia recommends it to treat inflammatory hyperpigmentation left behind after acne and ingrown hairs, sunspots, and certain forms of melasma.
“One thing I always like to clarify is that kojic acid doesn’t “bleach” the skin,” says Heredia. “Instead, it helps regulate excess pigment production. It’s treating existing discoloration to gradually fade while preventing the formation of new dark spots.”
How do I use kojic acid?
Kojic acid can be used on both the face and body, making it a versatile ingredient. It’s particularly useful for the neck, chest, and underarms, among other affected areas.
However, those with very sensitive skin, active eczema, or compromised skin barriers should use caution as the ingredient may further contribute to redness or irritation.
Additionally, Heredia stresses that SPF is crucial when using products with kojic acid. Without sunscreen, “you’re essentially trying to empty a bathtub while the faucet is still running,” Heredia says.
She also advises against layering too many active ingredients like retinol and other actives as “overdoing it can damage the skin barrier and actually worsen inflammation, which may ultimately contribute to more pigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones.”
What kojic acid products do experts recommend?
Medicube Capsule Cream with Kojic Acid & Turmeric
A kojic acid version of their viral collagen cream, this Medicube product consists of concentrated capsules that help balance skin tone, fade dark spots, and boost radiance.
SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense
Heredia recommends this powerful serum "for its combination of kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide," which visibly brighten signs of discoloration.
APRILSKIN A.C.E Serum
Combining kojic acid and vitamin C, this fast-absorbing serum can be applied to both the face and the body to help brighten discoloration from head to toe.
Kitsch Kojic Acid Soap
Consider this soap an in-shower treatment to tackle texture and fade dark spots. It has over 10,000 5-star ratings from reviewers who rave they've seen actual results.
SUNGBOON EDITOR Glow Intensive Kojic Acid Ampoule
This ampoule gently yet effectively clears hyperpigmentation while preventing future discoloration from forming. niacinamide also aids in improving the appearance of dull, uneven skin tone.
SkinMedica Even & Correct Advanced Brightening Treatment Serum
Recommended by our expert, this splurge-worthy serum helps treat melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation on face, chest, and hands without drying them out.
Medicube Kojic Acid Turmeric Brightening Body Wash
This brightening gel body wash effortlessly lathers into a bubbly foam that targets uneven skin tone and texture. It supports the skincare barrier and won't strip your skin, even with daily use.
Dr.Melaxin Peel Shot Kojic Acid Turmeric Body Exfoliator Spray
If you're struggling with discoloration on your body, this easy-to-use spray is a quick and effective solution. It's formulated with retinol and niacinamide to give even out the complexion and restore its glow.
Korean Skin Care Ultra Brightening Kojic Acid Serum
Featuring a mix of acids, including kojic acid, this K-beauty serum brightens dark spots and discoloration while hyaluronic acid plumps and moisturizers.
Medicube Toner Pads Kojic Acid Turmeric Clarifying Toner
If you love Medicube's fan-favorite toner pads, you'll adore this kojic acid version, which refreshes dull skin by exfoliating and brightening discoloration.
How We Choose
The E! Insider Shop editors and writers search the internet to find the best products out there. We interview expert sources, comb through customer reviews, and use our own personal experiences to make shopping easier for our readers.
As an editorial team, we independently create content and determine coverage based on research, reporting and what we think our readers would like to read about. The goal of our content is to provide a service and inform readers who are on the hunt for the latest products to help make their life better. Items are sold by retailer, not E!. Pricing and availability are accurate as of publish time.
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